Last year, the Kitsap Climbing Group attempted and summited Mt. Johnson, the highest peak in the Needles situated just west of Royal Basin in the Olympic Mountains.  This is  a beautiful area with some great Olympic Mountain style climbing...long approach, somewhat loose rock, but stunning beauty.

This year's objective was to climb Mt Clark, known for it's more solid rock and reasonable accessibility.  The goal was to climb the 5.0 rock route situated basically along the north ridge.  We're not sure that what either group climbed was the correct route, but all our climbers definitely had an adventure.  Below are some important approach and descent notes that may be useful for future trips.

The first group started from Shelter Rock in the main meadow of Royal Basin near Royal Lake.  Their route took them scrambling up the west side of the basin along a steep climber's path and a waterfall.  After topping out and crossing the stream, they traversed north on a sidehill meadow until a minor gully allowed them to cross a minor east-west ridge.  From here, the team ascended to a snow ramp or finger that led to the lower reaches of Belvedere Basin, the gateway to the climbing route.  The group reported hard, frozen snow in the snow finger.  Crampons were useful.  Cooler temperatures recently have made the snow quite solid providing good footing. 

The group moved up toward the lowest point in the ridge just north of Mt Clark, at the head of Belvedere Basin.  There they searched for the climbing route but were convinced that the steep exposed slabs on the west side of the ridge did not offer the climbing reported in the Olympic Climber's Guide.  They traversed the east face of the ridge in the direction of the Mt Clark summit instead.  They crossed a steep snow finger and climbed slabs, gullies and rock faces to the ridgeline north of the summit.  Near the summit block they lost the correct route and arrived at the northwest face of the summit block.  It should be noted that this is not the correct face of the summit block to climb.  Being on this side of the summit block provides no access to the proper descent route.  Some members of the party climbed the exposed pillow lava that provided few placements for protection.  Others were anxious to start the descent, and remained at the base of the summit.

Nevertheless, the team found they could descend by scrambling and rappelling loose gullies to arrive at open dirt and scree slopes above Surprise Basin.  They found their way down to the basin and headed back south toward upper Royal Basin.  Exiting Surprise Basin also has a recommended route.  Parties should stay west near the at the top of the first moraine encountered and continue in a southerly direction.  Routes farther east encounter difficult to traverse steep dirt and boulder fields.  Staying a bit west and going to the third, grassy moraine provides an easier descent along a climber's path on the top of the grassy moraine.

From the upper basin, a good trail returns to the main meadows near Shelter Rock and the completion of the route.

The other team took a different route to the summit and a different descent route down.  The second group started from camp in upper Royal Basin near the large tarn.  They crossed the basin north, heading for the gully that is just east of Sundial.  This is a good approach to routes 1 and 2 of Sundial as well as Mt Clark.  The gully was steep and somewhat loose but no significant difficulties were encountered.  As always, awareness of footing and rockfall are necessary.  At the notch at the head of the gully, the team peered down at a steep snow gully (30 degrees) that gave access to Belvedere Basin.  A snow bollard was set up and all party members rappelled a double rope rappel to the basin.  The party had not brought crampons.  The sun was warming the basin but the gully was still very firm and icy. 

The group climbed toward the same low point on the ridge as the other team had the day before.  They also traversed the east face a short distance but stayed closer to the walls forming the east face.  Behind a hard snowbank and in a moat, the team roped up on two ropes.  Climbing on a moderate and easily protectable slab for 75 feet was fun.  A narrow gully was crossed and the ascent toward the ridgeline began.  The first pitch ended above the gully at a horn that provided a belay anchor.  This was a full pitch with climbing  to 5.3.  From here, the route taken went straight up toward the ridgeline finding good pro placements and moderate 5.2-5.3 climbing.  A good tree belay was found just below the ridgeline.

From the tree belay, the second group traversed the ridge toward the summit block.  Important!  About 50 yds from the summit, hop over a large rock and get back on to the east side of the ridge!  The proper route provides access to a moderate class 3 rock gully to the summit.  It should be noted that the descent route is just below the northeast face of the summit block.

The proper descent can be done without a rope, although some members may want a belay.  This is a class 3 descent route for approximately 250 ft.  It is important to make sure the descent is on the northeast face of the summit block, and goes down all the way to the heather bench that can be seen from the summit.  The heather bench is on the Belvedere Basin side of the peak and is the key to an easy, fast descent of Mt Clark.  (This is also the class 3 (Rt 1) route described in the Olympic Mountain Climber's Guide.) 

The heather bench is followed down and south until it turns a corner to the right and a moderate, solid face with blocks and grooves heads up to the ridgeline.  After attaining the ridgeline, generally head west 40-50 yds to find the head of a gully system.  Descend this gully, generally staying to the right.  As the bottom of the gully opens up, head north and descend a wide rock and heather bench to the access point at the head of Surprise Basin.  From here, head back to upper Royal Basin following the notes above.

Time on route 10.5 hours. 

I am convinced that the correct 5.0 route described in the guide climbs the edge of the exposed slabs at the lowest point in the ridge as noted above.  Another trip is in the works to see if that route can be done reasonably and added to the Kitsap Mountaineers selection of basic climbs.